Again thank you , I will speak to them tomorrow, really appreciate your help, can I put this information on the tech site please? I will make sure your name is recorded
Kind regards
Trevor

Rimmer Bros part number RP1128 (front), RP1129 (rear).
Sometimes if they are not in stock it takes about 3 weeks.
Phone 01522 568000
They come complete with rubbers.

Thank you for your comments I wonder if you kept the part number by any chance either Spax or Rimmers I need to replace mine on the front and may as well do the rears as well.
Again thank you for your help
Kind regards
Trevor

Seems this topic has been going on for some time, sorry I must have been asleep.
My ZB was fitted with spax adjustables some years ago, clearly some time ago as the adjusters on the front ones were rusted up, they are also not facing the correct way for easy adjustment!
When first purchased the ride was very choppy at the back so I slackened the adjustment to just 1 click up from minimum. Problem solved.
When I rebuilt the front suspension, new rubbers and tie rod repairs I found it impossible to disconnect the bottom of one of the front shocks so had to cut thru the bottom eye using a hacksaw blade between the spring coils. It took a complete day, but so what I am beyond paid work!
Fitted new spax adjustable, purchased from Rimmer Bros £170 per pair delivered, set them to 1 click up from minimum and they seem fine for road driving.
I have set the adjusting screws at the inside, rather than behind the king pin assembly but they are still a pig to adjust, you need lots of special bent screwdrivers!
I did try to have some specially made with the adjusting screws accessible either from the front or rear of the spring but £££££££££.
When researching shocks it seems that all the adjustable s are naturally firmer than original equipment.
Hope these ramblings are of value.

Hi Arch,
I am sorry I can't recall "exactly" what was required for this conversion as it was never recorded. But I took some photos and did some drawings that I'd be happy to photocopy and forward. I doubt they would be of any use though as the calipers are Australian made Girlock and would be unavailable in your country.The brackets [mounting plates] I made out of some 150x10mm flat bar only to have it milled down to 8mm to centre the caliper over the rotor [disc] had I have known this earlier I would have made the brackets using 8mm material in the first place. Rather than try to set everything up on the car I borrowed a spare king pin stub axle assembly put it in my vice and went from there. Like me if you opt to take the more difficult road rather than the easy MGA/MGB conversion you will be rewarded by learning some engineering skills save some money and be very satisfied with yourself. Another thing I should tell you is I left the hubs bearings
and seals as standard and had spacers turned up to suit the stub axle.
Regards
Darryl

Darryl, I am not going to be doing any major changes in the near future. BUT, many of us would like to know how you did the brake work on your car. What exactly did you use and how did you do it? Thanks for your input, Arch